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Yes as long as it creates some tooth on the surface.

There is no excess Part B. Quart cans are less expensive than 1/2 quart cans so we fill the Part to full and the Part B to 1/2 full.

@@PondArmorEpoxy Gotcha. Thanks for the reply! Was confused for the moment.

@@nexrole884 No problem Better to ask and make sure you get it right.

Can it stick to pond foam? I patched my small water fall with pond foam but i still got leakage

You are welcome.

Always 60 grit between coats. More tooth is better. Also the best time to recoat is usually about 1 to 1.5 hours after the initial coat. No sanding required then.

No. It needs to be a solid, constructed surface.

Yes, but you'd have to follow the instructions on the stock tank tutorial video located at www.pondarmor.com/instructions The metal prep work and priming would be the same except for the vinegar step.

I am not sure what you're asking me here. Please clarify.

They’re asking if they can use a non toxic epoxy to do 200 mls of touch up on their filter box they created utilizing your pond shield product. Advising the cost of shipping a new order of the “pond shield” to the UK is cost prohibitive. Basically will any Non Toxic epoxy work for their application. Hope that was of some help

​@@firemedic10353 Hi I would of thought this was simple. if they wanted to go the extra mile they could send me another pack free of charge as the video promotes the brand. Any way it would seem epoxy is sold by many companys the question is non toxic art epoxy the same as their product. I get the feeling pond shield is a overpriced product with a fancy name. Thanks for making your comment firemedic... epoxy in 2 parts is available world wide by many companys. sadly not every one has a good brain. many thanks regards.

@@firemedic10353 Thanks.

Not just any non toxic epoxy will do. It really needs to be an underwater service type of coating like Pond Shield is. Very few types of coatings can be installed in a submerged environment.

Ceramic is too smooth. You'd have to really rough it up by sanding in order to get a coating to stick properly.

Thew reality is that any corrosion you leave behind will likely plague you later. You could grind everything like we show in the videos and then instead of using a self-etching primer, you could use a rust converting primer. The problem with that though is it is not a guarantee that all of the rust coated by the primer will be converted. It SHOULD convert, but there's no real way to be 100% sure.

@@PondArmorEpoxy thank you for your reply.

Simple. Our hardener has a slight yellow hue to it. When you apply the coating at the minimum recommended thickness or even twice as thick as that, you do not see it. But the thicker it gets, the more it becomes visible. In this fountain's case, the damage was so deep that trying to lay the coating down thin like that was near impossible.

Well, epoxy and fiberglass are two different things. Epoxy is a resin and fiberglass would be the medium suspended within and emulsion. But I know what you're really asking here, however it is important for my answer to make sense by understanding the difference between the two as you had asked. When people speak of fiberglass, they are almost always referring to fiberglass cloth and the polyester resin it is suspended in. The polyester is more often than not a material that is not inert after it cures meaning it will leech off toxins even though it is cured. Our coating is indeed inert and will not leech off toxins after it is cured. That means you could swap out the polyester resin for Pond Shield and get the same finished results but without the toxicity involved. Hope that helps.

That's a good idea. Maybe we'll see if we can fit one in.

@@PondArmorEpoxy ua-cam.com/video/H7a6DVjN01s/v-deo.htmlsi=y2Vocs8r4eg28iQp

We do have a bunch of other colors to choose from as well.

It's usually about an hour. That's when I start checking. If anything comes off on your hand when you check just let it wait another 30 minutes and check again. Tacky is OK, wet is not. Wet is too soon to coat over.

You're welcome!

All of that information can be found at www.pondarmor.com/instructions Also have a look at our FAQ pages as well.

Silicone is fine but the stacking order is wrong. It should be Pond Shield first then silicone on top of that.

I really could not say as that info was not shared with me.

It's just a short nap cloth roller. Personally I prefer a bondo squeegee and a $3-$4 polyester paint brush. I cut 1/3 of the bristle length off of the brush to mildly stiffen it. I mix my materials, and dump them into the tank. I use the bondo spreader to move it everywhere it needs to be and then finish with that brush. Simple.

Not my build, not sure why. Just wanted to share the build with you all.

Normally 24 hours, but you HAVE to run your hand on it to make sure it feels like smooth, DRY plastic. If it does not, it is not ready.

Sure. A lot of odd ball things. Some you can never coat and others that need special prep in order to get adhesion.

Well you'll just have to move forward as it is, IF you want to. You have a few issues that I need to point out so that you are fully aware of what you have right now. 1. The acrylic paint is likely to lift at some point because those types of paints do not stick very well to concrete and stone. So you may have future issues whether you coat with Pond Shield or not. 2. The surface you apply Pond Shield to needs to be prepped properly. Acid etching is always the first step, but you are beyond that now. Next is that any remaining painted surface be sanded or roughed up prior to coating IF the coating has been on the surface more than about a day. If you had used an acrylic base coat for a two stage paint system (like an automotive acrylic), then that paint would stay "open" longer allowing you to apply Pond Shield without sanding. 3. Usually, surfaces like this are completed by first prepping the surface, then applying a thin coat of Pond Shield. Wait 24 hours, then sand the Pond Shield and apply an automotive acrylic (as specified above), then top coat with Pond Shield clear to seal everything in place. You're in a different spot now, which is not entirely bad, but does merit a little more babysitting over the life of what you have coated. You could apply Pond Shield over the top of what you have, but you may experience delaminating issues later that will have to be fixed. You'll just have to watch for it.

​@PondArmorEpoxy I appreciate your reply. I feel more confident about applying the pond shield now. I will keep an eye on it like you suggested. My next birdbath I will take the steps you laid out above. Thank you for your help.

@@kismyc0untryazz-491Yeah, no problem. You can always call me as well at 800-716-1545. I'll be happy to help.

That's some great straight forward experience information there! Thanks for sharing that. First let me start by saying YES YOU HAVE TO SAND TOMORROW. I know it is not what you want to hear, but I always tell everyone what they have to hear, not what they want to hear. All you need to do is knock the shine off real quick.. That's all. Now back to my commenting on your information. I have heard both sides of how easy or difficult it is to apply the coating. For some people it is extremely easy. For others, it can be difficult. EVERYTHING plays a part in that though. How much you mix at a time, outside temperature, humidity, tools you chose, your skill set and so on. Any one of those things can make the process difficult, just as a simple tool change, for example, can make the process easier. It all sounds like you followed the rules so far, so please do not skip sanding on this next phase. Please let us all know how it turns out. You're doing a great job!

@@PondArmorEpoxy I was afraid you’d say that. I’m tempted to throw my sanders away when I get done with this project😂 but thank you for the reply and I will sand it before my next application. Even though I don’t want to. There definitely are a lot of variables that can effect the outcome of this project. I feel like I’ve done most of it right, so we will see.

@@lukebramblett66 Look, the coating you just applied is still really new and most likely you'd be able to hand sand it real quick in order to scuff it up. It should not take much at this point. Again, just knock the shine off. If you use a sander, move it quickly and do not apply much pressure.

@@lukebramblett66I am in the same situation currently as you were a few months ago. So DONE with sanding. Can I ask are you satisfied with the end result? And how much product did you use for your pool? I am afraid I do t have enough if you used the whole 1.5 gallons for your 8’ pool. Thank you for your reply.

@@pammiller1528 honestly if I had it to do over I would’ve never done it. I did use all the product I had. It will chip if it takes a hard hit from anything. If you don’t have kids and don’t plan on having any pets in it you might be ok. My kids have chipped it in a couple places. The outcome definitely was not worth the overall blood sweat and tears of getting it done. In my honest opinion pond shield would be great for a smaller type aquarium project or “mini stock tank porch pond” but I would never do a 8’ or bigger stock tank again. If I were to tackle it again I would get a new stock tank, use it until it starts to rust, then have the rust sandblasted off instead of hand sanding, then find some kind of liner that could be sprayed in instead of rolled or brushed. Or maybe even go with a vinyl or plastic liner. I wouldn’t do pond shield again. Just my honest opinion.

We've had people use it for hot tubs in the past successfully. Bear in mind two things. The coating is slippery when wet. Sprinkle a little clear sand on your last wet coat to act as non skid and make sure to let the coating cure for 3-4 days before putting it into service in those temperatures.

If we get a chance to we might.

Unfortunately, no. We do have a variety of colors to choose from though.

The easiest way to get to where you want to go is to consider sprinkling different colored sand on top of the last wet coat of Pond Shield that you apply. Once cured, you could vacuum up any residual sand and have the surface you're looking for. As a side note, yes, you could mix two Pond Shield colors together, but you might not get the color you want. You could also buy a base kit of Pond Shield like tan for example, and then use touch up kits colors and sponges to model extra color in on top of the base color you applied. Any of these products can be found at www.pondarmor.com

@@PondArmorEpoxy Hey , thanks a lot for the fast reply and the help :) have a nice day .

You too! @@ennov9349

Yes that would. Just make sure to sprinkle it on top of the last wet coat. If you just mix it in, it may very well disappear into the coating.

That primer is meant for pitted concrete. SEM self-etching primer is meant for metals.

Yeah, we made that joke here too LOL.

@@PondArmorEpoxy I knew i liked you guys. We used pond armor to A: coat our deteriorating fountain and B: paint the ceiling in a very oddly shaped shower!

@@stephendumaine1575 Yep, both of those are perfect uses!

It depends on how you store the tank. I have seen the best survival come from a tarp used to line the inside, then fill the tank with wadded up tarps, then pull a tarp tight over the top and use bungee cords to band it to the tank all the way around.

@@PondArmorEpoxy thank you for your reply however this is an 8’ in diameter stock tank used as a pool. That is A LOT of tarps to fill this tank. Bummer.

@@pammiller1528 Not really, Harbor Freight has them in all sorts of sizes and they are cheap, especially if you grab a coupon online from them.

It all depends on the size of the stock tank. Give me a call and tell me what the measurements are and I will calculate it for you. 800-716-1545

Well that really works well on these chest freezers because the expanse on the seams in those is so short. I would be a little leery about how long the seams are on these larger tanks. Remember, the more the steel moves, the more the seams are pulled and misshapen. I do not know for sure if JB Waster Weld would hold up to the punishment there. You're essentially asking it to work like a full fledged Mig of Tig weld, which I do not think it can do as well.

Once it is cured properly, it is inert.

No idea. You'd have to ask your Dad and ask him why he did that as well. I am not sure what it would have been.

Maybe it was fiberglass?

Sounds like fiberglass to me. He may have used it to strengthen the project, or used it to add in shaping the project.

It's a 2:1 mix. Part A (the clear or color can) is full. The Part B (clear with a slight yellow hue) is half full.

The ratios you need are found in the instruction sheet that came with the kit. If you no longer have that, you can see them online here at: www.pondarmor.com/instructions/

@@PondArmorEpoxy thank you!

@@annebellflower4298 You're welcome!

@@PondArmorEpoxy It does not say how much alchohol to use

@@kemotheconsumer The instruction sheet lays all of that out. If you do not have yours, you can visit www.pondarmor.com/instructions/ and see them there.

SEM self etching primer at an auto PAINT store. Pond Shield epoxy on the www.pondarmor.com website, tools, either borrowed, rented or owned, consumables like sandpaper and such at a hardware store. The consumables are basic painting items but I prefer to use a $3 or $4 polyester paint brush and I will cut 1/3 of the bristle length off of the brush to mildly stiffen it. I also use a Bondo spreader found at an auto parts store to pull the epoxy around before brushing it. You may also find this list helpful as well: www.pondarmor.com/a-list-for-preparing-to-use-pond-armor-epoxy/

@@PondArmorEpoxy What about the hardener you mention? Is that part of the pond armor package? You mention to brand name. Please clarify.

@@dawnperry6591 That's part of the Pond Shield kit. You get Epoxy and hardener.

@@PondArmorEpoxy I have a 40-gallon stock tank. How much pond shield would I need?

@@dawnperry6591 I don't know. Tell me what the length, width and depth is or if it is round tell me what the diameter and depth is.

Pond Shield. Purchase it here: www.pondarmor.com